Can Nioxin Thicken Thinning Hair?

A concerned father contacted me with this question about his nine-year old daughter’s hair. “Her hair used to be down her back. After several relaxers were applied, it is now broken off up past her shoulders and so thin I can see her scalp and it is affecting her self-esteem.” After conducting some online research on his own, he called me to ask if Nioxin shampoo will help thicken his daughter’s hair again.  Well, as I told him, the answer to this question is – no. Now let me explain.

Nioxin is a brand of shampoo designed to address thinning hair caused by Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a male sex hormone that causes hair loss in both males and females as a consequence of changes in the metabolism. Male pattern baldness is caused by the sensitivity of hair follicles to DHT, where the hair follicles shrink causing abnormal hair production. DHT effects the hair follicles ability to absorb nutrients necessary for healthy hair growth.  Nioxin’s claim is that it dissolves and removes sebum so the follicles can get the proper nutrition, however, its ingredients contain no medications.  Most importantly, any hair growth that may be achieved while using Nioxin is lost again when usage is stopped. 

The critical message here is that thinning hair resulting from relaxers cannot be resolved by using Nioxin. Relaxer thinning is caused from a caustic chemical being pushed into the pores during smoothing, which causes the hair cells to stop producing hair at its once normal rate. This is very different from DHT issues where the metabolism is the cause.

Who should use Nioxin? It should definitely not be used on a nine- year old. It was designed to be used on adult males and females with non –relaxer balding issues.  Nioxin will not thicken hair that is the result of misapplied relaxer chemicals.

Do WEN Products Work for Afro-Textured Hair?

This is a question that keeps coming to me from many of my customers.

We have all seen the infomercials and advertisements about WEN, stating that it is good for all hair types. A key feature of WEN’s concept (much like co-washing) is to clean and condition the hair all at the same time by using one product to do both.

Well, I am happy to give you my OPINION based on my many years of experience with the unique characteristics of afro-textured hair.  If you are familiar with my research, you know that primarily our hair is naturally very dry. As a result, we need to moisturize our hair daily to prevent breakage that results from dry, brittle hair.

After reviewing the WEN products and overall concept, my OPINION is that WEN products don’t provide sufficient daily moisture to meet the needs of our extremely dry hair type.  Also, I believe in shampooing to cleanse and remove buildup of daily maintenance products.

Again, this is just my “two cents” based on my more than twenty years of research and product design to address the specific characteristics and prolonged health of afro-textured hair.   

Cathy Howse

Keratin Hair Treatments - Should You Get One?

If you have access to any type of social media, you know that keratin treatments are the new “buzz” in hair care. You may have heard keratin treatments referred to as “Brazilian Hair Treatment” or Brazilian Blowout,” but although the names imply a difference, they are one and the same. Let me walk you through the keratin treatment process.

First, the keratin (aka amino acid) based solution is “lightly” applied to hair that has been shampooed and rinsed. This solution also contains formaldehyde. In fact, it is the formaldehyde that is the source of much debate, resulting in keratin treatments coming with a warning for women who are pregnant or nursing not to use the product. This is due to the fumes that are released when the hair is flat-ironed at a temperature of 450 degrees, which is the next step of the treatment process. The heating portion of the treatment is key to achieving the straight hair.  After the flat-ironing, the hair is re-rinsed with water and styled as usual, which can mean blow drying and flat ironing the hair again. But here’s the real clincher, you cannot wash your hair. Nor can it be put up in hair pins, pony tails etc. because it has to remain straight for 72 hours (3 days).

Although the manufactures say the product is natural, formaldehyde is not natural and, in fact, you may recognize it by a more common name -- embalming fluid!  Even the formulations that tout “formaldehyde free” contain “Methylene Glycol” which is another term for formaldehyde. The FDA has issued warnings for the maximum levels of formaldehyde use in products, yet some manufactuers’ solutions far exceed these levels.
In my opinion, keratin treatments are just another example of the hair care industry’s eagerness to capitalize on another product that produces short-term results without consideration for the long-term health of our hair. 

For me, the short-lived appearance of keratin treatments does not out-weigh the potential side-effects such as deteriorating hair texture, balding and cancer risks from breathing in carcinogens. My rule of thumb is if my hairdresser has to wear a gas mask to apply a treatment to my hair, then it’s not for me.  Nor would I recommend it.

Check out this video experience from a hair care professional that came to me as a comment. I feel it's necessary to share with you.

Silicone in Black Hair Products - Good or Bad?

With all the talk about whether using silicone in hair products is a good or bad thing, I decided to offer my take on it and insights based on my experience. First, let’s define what they are. Silicone ingredients are either, Dimethicone or Cyclomethicone  -- commonly referred to as the “cones.”
 
From my research about silicones over the years, I have learned that because of their molecular properties, silicones are both porous and resistant to air. This allows them to form a “breathable” barrier on the hair. In other words, silicones provide an outer layer of protection on the hair while at the same time allowing needed products to seep through to the inner hair layers. The unique fluid properties of silicone give it a great deal of slip, and in its various forms it can noticeably enhance the texture and appearance of your hair by giving it the look and feel of silk. Silicone can also help keep the hair from drying out by sealing in moisture without making the hair feel heavy and weighed down.
From my experience with the daily use of silicones in my hair products for almost ten years now, I have personally enjoyed the following benefits:

Easier wet and dry combing
Increased shine and luster
Soft, silky feel and appearance
Keeps hair moist and light
Non-greasy
Sealant and heat resistant
Protects hair from heat damage

I do recommend, however, that when using silicones you should periodically use a clarifying shampoo to remove buildups. Be aware that if you co-wash your hair, (wash your hair without using shampoo), you will experience buildups a lot quicker than if you shampoo. Still, my bottom-line take on this issue is that the “good” results of incorporating silicone products into your hair care routine far outweigh the “bad” opinions.
 
Reference:  The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, Volume 3, Book 2, Allured Publishing Corporation, 2002.

Can Wearing Ponytails Damage My Hair?

It is possible. Wearing tight ponytails on a regular basis where the hair is pulled back causing tension on the hairline can result in hair loss. Unfortunately, hair loss brought about in this manner could be permanent. Typically, this type of damage only occurs where this style of ponytail is worn frequently and for long periods of time such as months or years.
 

Nevertheless, the ponytail is a hair style that has withstood the test of time. Due to the ease of creating the style and its ability to transcend from casual to formal in appearance, ponytails have remained popular throughout history and across cultures. A major consideration to wearing a ponytail without causing damage to your hair is in the device used to secure it. For example, rubber bands may be difficult to remove and often become entangled in the hair when trying to pull them off. Better options include pony barrettes, Blax bands and Bungee cords, all of which are specifically designed for the pony style.

For me, the ponytail is a great solution for the occasional “bad hair” days that we all have from time to time. The key is to make sure that you pull your hair back loosely without putting too much tension on your hairline and that you secure it with something that is not going to cause breakage when removing it from your hair. Also, if you have little girls, be sure not to pull their hair into ponytails or plaits that are too tight and cause too much tension. This could cause permanent hair loss along their hairline.

If the proper care is taken, ponytails are an easy, do-it-yourself, inexpensive style that can be worn without causing any damage to your hair.

Top Black Hair Myths from Cathy Howse's Hair Seminar

In my Hair Care, Hair Myth, Hair Growth Seminar I identify the top myths associated with Black hair growth. They are:

• Myth #1 says: TRIMMING helps the hair grow

IF THAT actually worked we’d all have long hair! Trimming has nothing to do with hair growth – it never has – and it never will. Hair grows from the scalp – not the ends. Hair is DEAD. Trimming the ends off cannot send a signal to the roots to grow more hair. Hair is not like a rose bush where you “trim a piece off” and another piece shoots out.

• Myth #2 says: that LACK OF TRIMMING will split all the way up the hair shaft.

If every hair on your head is prone to splitting all the way up the hair shaft – trimming is not going to help you any way. Split ends will not stop your hair from growing! That myth is perpetuated by the hair care industry

• Myth #3 says: we need to BRUSH our hair to stimulate the scalp and make our hair grow

Ask any white person with a PERM if they brush their hair – They’ll tell you NO! So why should we think we should be able to brush our hair when we have a tighter curl pattern than they do?

• Myth #4 says that Hair is Alive –

Hair is not alive but dead! That's the reason it does not hurt to cut it. And remember – something that is alive has requirements that are TOTALLY different than something that is dead!

• Myth #5 says – Can’t wash your hair too OFTEN because you’ll dry out your natural oils!

Water is vital for the body– So how can water dry out your hair? It doesn’t make sense. It is not how often you wash your hair that causes the problem – it is what you wash your hair with! If washing hair were a problem –every white person out there would be baldheaded. Because they wash their hair everyday! So it is what you use that can cause you hair to DRY OUT and BREAK OFF

• Myth #6 say: Too much protein is damaging

NOPE protein is one of the best things you can do to your hair. Protein must be softened when you use it. But it is a requirement for our hair – in fact ALL hair. Without it – the hair will break!

• Myths #7 says: Grease is a requirement for our hair and it grows hair

The scalp does not need to be oiled. Sebaceous glands take care of the scalp. Mineral oil and petroleum found in hair grease coat and block the pores like liquid saran wrap – nothing goes in and nothing comes out. You actually cause dandruff in a number of cases by oiling your scalp

• Myth #8 says: It is okay to touch up relaxed edges with a pressing comb

Pressing combs will destroy chemically processed hair! Relaxers were never intended to be used with extreme amounts of heat. Never press chemically processed hair – NEVER.  If you see your hairdresser grabbing a pressing comb or even a curling iron that has been heated on one of those little stoves – STOP THEM It will cause you MAJOR breakage!

• Myth #9 says: If you let your hair grow forever without cutting and breaking it will grow long enough to sit on

Think about this – if you never shaved your leg hair or you never shaved your underarm hair it wouldn’t grow long enough to braid it WOULD IT? Every hair has a natural life cycle – the lifecycle on your head may be 2 years and others may be 6 years.Some of you may be able to grow your hair past their bottoms – most of you will not. Most sisters just want to get it past your shoulders and they will be happy.

Myths are one of the reasons we have short hair. Use common sense when something sounds suspicious to dispel the myths about black hair.

Cathy Howse

Do Prenatal Vitamins Really Increase Hair Growth?

This question has been the source of much debate. The medical community is not totally convinced that prenatal vitamins alone are the source of increased hair growth during pregnancy. This is because not all pregnant women who take prenatal vitamins experience this positive result with their hair.

But, we do know that prenatal vitamins contain large amounts of nutrients including iron, zinc and folic acid which provide nourishment to the cells in the scalp. So it is possible that many pregnant women experience hair growth because during this time they are taking in a sufficient amount of these nutrients.

If your typical daily diet consists of unprocessed foods, fruits, a colorful variety of vegetables, whole grains, lentils, and plenty of water, then you will likely have sufficient vitamins and minerals needed for growth and health of your hair.